It's the Wagyu life -- tromping through the dust and having some cowboy stick a syringe up your heiniey. Later, your calf turns into a $200 steak.

Halfway between Albuquerque and Santa Fe I stopped at Lone Mountain Wagyu ranch to see how the finest beef is made. These cattle were American Wagyu, and just like the rest of us USA mongrels, they were a combination of various breeds. The true Wagyus, in Japan, are pampered animals with incredibly rich, fine marbling. In the 1970s, some were brought to America and bread with Black Angus animals to make American Wagyu, which is less “fine” than the Japanese version, but still special. Some of the cowboys wore masks against the virus, others couldn’t have given a flying f*ck. As I left, they gave me a steak, worth about 80 bucks. I drove to Santa Fe and grilled it in a park on the fourth of July and ate it by myself with hot sauce and cubes of watermelon. Superb. This video includes scenes of artificial insemination, which might be a bit shocking to the uninitiated. But this is real life. This is how we get our meat.